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Amelia Tomato Seeds

Guarantee To Grow
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Suitable for Southeastern States
Amelia Tomato
SKU: TM477-10
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Country Of Origin: USA USA
Availability: In stock
$4.00
Your price: $3.75
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Non Treated Seeds
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75 days. Solanum lycopersicum. (F1) Amelia Tomato. The plant produces heavy yields of large 8 to 12 oz red tomatoes. They are very flavorful, firm, and uniform in shape. Perfect for sandwiches, salads, and slicing. It produces a lot of tomatoes, from 20 to 30 pounds per plant. Crack Resistant. Does well in the Southeast region of the USA. Suitable for containers. An excellent choice for home gardens, market growers, and open field production. A variety from the USA. Disease Resistant: V, FFF, N, St, TSWV. Determinate.

Lot No: 100248

Germination: 90%

Test Date: 09/2024

Seeds Per Pound: 128,000

Plant Height: 36 to 48” tall

Planting Season: Spring

Sunlight Requirement: Full Sun

Planting Method: Indoor Sow

PL

Tomato Lycopersicon esculentum

 
Seed DepthSoil Temp. for GerminationDays to GerminationSunlight RequirementsPlanting Time
1/4 to 1/2" 80 F to 85 F 7 to 14 daysFull Sun Spring
USDA Hardiness ZoneSeed SpacingRow SpacingSpace After ThinningDays to Harvest
N/A 1"48" 48"60 - 90 days
Tomato Seed Planting Information:

Tomato plants should be grown in warm areas and receive plenty of sunlight, so choose a sunny spot in your garden. Relocate your tomato plants in different parts of your garden yearly to avoid diseases. The optimum temperatures for growing tomatoes from seeds are between 80 - 85 F. Plant your seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before setting them outside. Use Miracle Gro Seed Starting Material for best germination results. We have tested other Seed Starting mixes and experienced poor germination rates. Do not add any soil, fertilizers, and other chemicals to the seed starting material. Do not use jiffy peat pots, plugs, or potting soil, or use covers, as the soil may become too dry or too wet, which can lead to disease and fungus and poor germination results. Do not bottom water the seeds as this causes the seed starting material to become too wet and you will experience poor germination too. We have experienced disease and low germination when using these types of products and covering the pots and trays with covers. When seedlings are 4" tall, transplant them in larger pots. Plants should be at least 10" tall before transplanting outdoors. Plants should be planted outdoors in shady areas for several days before transplanting outdoors. Shelter the transplants to prevent sunburn, wilting, and rain damage. Spring planting should occur when the soil is warm, at least 3 weeks after the last frost, and when temperatures remain above 70 degrees F. You can plant early if you use water towers. To prevent branches from breaking from the weight of tomatoes, use 5 to 6 ft tall cages. To tie plants to stakes, use soft strips of cloth. Check indeterminate plants regularly and pinch off suckers and side branches where leaves join the stems. Plants can grow from 1 to 6 ft tall.

Soil Requirements:

Requires fertile slightly acidic soil in a well-drained location in the garden. Apply mulch, grass clippings, or straw around the base of the plant. Work the soil thoroughly before planting. Add well-rotted manure and compost.

Water Requirements:

Requires fertile slightly acidic soil in a well-drained location in the garden. Apply mulch, grass clippings, or straw around the base of the plant. Work the soil thoroughly before planting. Add well-rotted manure and compost.

Fertilizer Requirements:

Use Slow Release (6 Month) Fertilizer when transplanting outdoors. Apply Miracle Gro Liquid Fertilizer every two weeks.

Harvest Tips:

Harvest tomatoes when fully mature using garden scissors so you don't damage the plant. Pick them as they mature to encourage new fruit to form. Remove any decayed tomatoes from the plant.

Tomato
Growing Calendar
Indoor Germination Temperature: 80 to 85 F
Minimum Outdoor Temperature: Above 70 F
Start Indoors Transplant Start Outdoors Start Indoors Fall Transplant Fall Start Outdoors Fall Multiple Crops
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Seed Depth: ¼” to ½“
Days to Germination: 7 to 14 days
Plant Spacing: 48”
Row Spacing: 48”
Sunlight Requirement: Full sun

Days to Harvest after Planting Outdoors: Early Season Tomato: 60 to 65 days Mid-Season Tomato: 70 to 75 days Late Season Tomato: 85 to 90 days


USDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 11


Use Miracle-Gro© Seed Starting Mix for best germination results.

FFF – Fusarium Wilt (Race 3)

Scientific Name: Fusarium oxysporum

Type: Fungus

Fusarium Wilt, Race 3, is a world-wide fungal disease that affects the growth of tomatoes. It is one of the most devastating of all soil-borne diseases. Race 3 is found in California, Florida, North Carolina, and South Carolina in the United States. It attacks the roots of the plants and moves up the stems. Symptoms include yellowing and browning of the older bottom leaves, stunting, and wilting. Often the entire plant will die. Usually little or no fruit develops. The infected plants will produce inferior and unmarketable tomatoes. It can cause significant yield loss and even total crops losses. If you stick with Fusarium Wilt Resistant tomato varieties you don’t have to worry. Many of the older heirlooms don’t have any resistance to the disease, so if you grow these then you should keep an eye out for it. The infected plants should be removed and burned to avoid further infestation. Plan on using a 5 to 7 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, as the disease can survive in the soil up to 10 years. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

N – Root-Knot Nematode

Scientific Name: Meloidogyne spp.

Type: Parasites

Nematodes are soil dwelling parasites that feed on plant roots and affect cucumbers, okra, peppers, squash, and tomatoes. Symptoms include yellowing of the leaves, wilting, and stunting of the plant. The plant will have galled and decayed roots. Nematodes are most active when soil temperatures are 85 - 95 F and usually occur when the soil is moisture. Plan on using a 3 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year. Nematodes are most active in warm soils and they need water to thrive so take advantage of summer’s heat to wither them away. Withhold water from nematode infested areas of the garden and turn or till the soil every 7-10 days during the summer to expose nematodes to the drying effects of the sun. Proper tillage practices may be helpful in managing the disease. Certain types of marigolds work by excreting a substance that is damaging to nematodes as well as trapping them in their roots and preventing reproduction. Elbon rye is an effective nematode control that can be planted as a cool season cover crop that is turned under in early spring. The use of soil fumigants like Vapam has been helpful and a fungicide called Actinovate can also be helpful in managing the lowering of the nematode population. Using transparent plastic mulches for 4 to 6 weeks have been shown to kill nematodes. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

St – Stemphylium Gray Spot Leaf

Scientific Name: Stemphylium solani, Stemphylium floridanum, and Stemphylium botryosum

Type: Fungus

Stemphylium Gray Spot Leaf is a fungal disease that affects the growth of tomatoes. It is found in warm regions of the country, and is common in the Southeastern part of the United States. Symptoms include brown to black specks on leaves. As the lesions grow in size, they develop a gray center surrounded by a yellow area. The spots may dry and fall out, forming a shot hole in the leaf. The disease may cause the entire leaves to turn yellow, then brown, and drop off, and the plant may be stunted. The tomatoes are not usually affected unless there is severe defoliation, where sunburn damage can occur on the tomatoes. If you stick with Stemphylium Gray Spot Leaf Resistant tomato varieties you don’t have to worry. Many of the older heirlooms don’t have any resistance to the disease, so if you grow these then you should keep an eye out for it. The infected plants should be removed and burned to avoid further infestation. Plan on using a 5 to 7 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, as the disease can survive in the soil for many years. Stake tomato plants for better circulation. Give plants extra space to allow air to move among leaves to keep leaves as dry as possible. Use soaker hoses and avoid overhead watering. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

TSWV – Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

Type: Virus - Tospovirus

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus is a world-wide virus disease that affects the growth of peppers and tomatoes. Symptoms include bronzing of the upper sides of young leaves, which later develop distinct yellow or brown rings. Leaves may curl inward. The plants will be stunted and have dark streaking on stems. The tomatoes will be deformed. There will be mottled light green rings with raised centers with orange and red discoloration patterns on mature tomatoes making them unmarketable. Infected plants usually wilt and die. It can cause significant yield loss and even total crops losses. The virus is spread by thrips. The disease can stay alive in dead plant material for long periods of time. The infected plants should be removed and destroyed to avoid further infestation. Plan on using a 3 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year. Insecticides for thrips have limited value in controlling the disease as thrips transmit the disease very quickly when they begin to feed on the plant. To control thrips, try setting out yellow or blue colored sticky traps and treat plants with insecticidal soaps. Keep your garden weed free. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

V – Verticillium Wilt

Scientific Name: Verticillium dahliae

Type: Fungus

Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne disease that affects the growth of lettuce, peppers, spinach, and tomatoes. This disease is most common in the United States and Europe. In lettuce symptoms include wilting of the lower leaves and then the outer leaves turn yellow, wilt and die. Brown and black streaks appear on the taproot and crown The disease can cause substantial yield loss and total crop loss. It is a seed-borne disease that is spread by farm equipment, wind, and water. The infected plants should be removed and burned to avoid further infestation. The virus can live in weeds, so use weed management techniques. The fungus is very difficult to eradicate once it has been introduced into a field. Plan on using a 4 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, and can survive in the soil for 14 years. Keep the fields weed free. Deep tilling may be helpful in managing the disease. Thoroughly clean equipment after working in a field. Fumigate fields with methyl bromide. The best option is to use virus-free seeds and disease resistant varieties

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Abby | 1/25/2023 5:00 AM
Great germination and great tomatoes! My kids love them also.
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sam | 5/17/2018 2:44 PM
got these because that is my grand daughters name and wanted to try them out. we had a couple of wet cold nights in April , and they got some leaf burn , but have come back along with the others.it is may 16th in TX and is getting warm fast and they are putting on the fruit. So far so good hope they taste good, my 1st time trying these.
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Guest | 11/13/2014 4:09 AM
The best producer in my Brenham,Texas garden this year.  Lots of beautiful tomatoes on a less bushy plant than other varities.  Plants were planted in April, produced June & July, survived the summer and full of tomatoes now in early November!
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Guest | 3/2/2012 4:06 AM
I grow produce for a living in SE Alabama and this variety is by far the most popular with growers in this area.  Great disease resistance, great size, great looks, and something a lot of commercial growers have abandoned over the years, TASTE.  As with most modern varieties, it's not going to taste as good as a better boy or other old favorites, anyone who tells you so is lying, but if your garden is small and has disease pressure, this one is head and shoulders above the rest for hot climates
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Guest | 1/30/2012 7:20 AM
I have grown the Amelia for the last 3 years and have good crops. After they quit producing if you will trim them back, put a little fertilizer and keep them watered you will have another crop for the fall and they will be as good as spring. We have to pick them before frost put them in a box covered with newspaper and have fresh tomatoes until January. Doug
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Guest | 12/27/2009 12:48 PM
I too grew the Amelia tomato, the year before last and was dissapointed when I could not find them last year.  I have not seen them in any of the magazines I have received lately.  My husband and I both loved the taste and they seemed very disease resistant.
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Guest | 10/5/2009 3:06 AM
I have grown the Amelia tomato and am very satisfied with its ability to with-stand diseases,and cracking abilities.The tomatoes are beautiful and tasty.Sizes with me have been between 8-10 oz.I will always have a Amelia tomato at planting time in my garden.
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