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Beefmaster Tomato pk/20

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SKU TM8-20
$2.50
Availability: In Stock
Description
Planting Instructions
Disease Resistant
Customer Reviews
80 days. Solanum lycopersicum. (F1) Plant produces enormous yields of large 1 to 2 lb bright red beefsteak tomatoes. These high quality tomatoes are sweet, meaty, and very flavorful. Perfect for sandwiches, salads, and slicing. Plant requires support, either staking or cages. Crack resistant. One of the most disease resistant tomato variety. Excellent choice for home gardens and market growers. Disease Resistant: V, F, N, A, St, TSWV. Indeterminate.

Lot No: QB2

Germination: 85%

Test Date: 09/17

Seeds Per Pound: 128,000

Plant Height: 60 to 72” tall

Planting Season: Spring

Sunlight Requirement: Full Sun

Planting Method: Indoor Sow



Tomato
Lycopersicon esculentum

 
Seed DepthSoil Temp. for GerminationDays to GerminationSunlight RequirementsPlanting Time
1/4 to 1/2" 80 F to 85 F 7 to 14 daysFull Sun Spring
USDA Hardiness ZoneSeed SpacingRow SpacingSpace After ThinningDays to Harvest
N/A 1"48" 48"60 - 90 days
Tomato Seed Planting Information:

Tomato plants should be grown in a warm areas and receive plenty of sunlight, so choose a sunny spot in your garden. Relocate your tomato plants in different parts of your garden each year to avoid diseases. Optimum temperatures for growing tomatoes are between 65 and 85 degrees F. Plant your seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before setting outside. Use Miracle Gro Seed Starting Material for best germination results. We have tested other Seed Starting Mix and experienced poor germination rates. You may have to special order the Miracle Gro Seed Starting Potting Mix from your nursery, as it is hard to find it at many of the large home and garden centers. Do not add any soil, fertilizers, and other chemicals to seed starting material! Do not use jiffy peat pots, plugs, or potting soil as the soil becomes too dry or too wet, which can lead to disease and fungus. We have experienced disease and low germination when using these types of products. When seedlings are 4" tall, transplant them in larger pots. Plants should be at least 10" tall before transplanting outdoors. Place plants outdoors in shady area several days before transplanting outdoors. Shelter the transplants to prevent sunburn, wilting, and rain damage. Spring planting should occur when soil is warm, at least 3 weeks after last frost, and when temperatures remain above 70 degrees F. You can plant early if you use water towers. To prevent branches from breaking from the weight of tomatoes, use 5 to 6 ft tall cages. To tie plants to stakes, use soft strips of cloth. Check indeterminate plants regularly, and pinch off suckers and side branches where leaves join the stems. Plants can grow 1 to 6 ft tall.

Soil Requirements:

Requires fertile slightly acid soil in a well drained location in the garden. Apply mulch and grass clippings, or straw around base of plant. Work the soil thoroughly before planting. Add well-rotted manure and compost.

Water Requirements:

Keep soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Water well during dry and hot spells. Water in the morning only, on the side of the plants and not directly on the leaves.

Fertilizer Requirements:

Use RootBlast, Vegetable Alive, and Slow Release Fertilizer when transplanting outdoors. Apply Miracle Gro every two weeks.

Harvest Tips:

Harvest tomatoes when they are fully mature using a garden scissor so you don't damage the plant. Pick them as they mature to encourage new fruit to form. Remove any decayed tomatoes from the plant.


A – Anthracnose

Scientific Name: Colletotrichum lagenarium

Type: Fungus

Anthracnose is a world-wide fungal disease that affects the growth of cucumbers, tomatoes, and watermelons. This disease is most common in the southern, mid-Atlantic, and mid-Western parts of the United States. Symptoms include lesions on the leaves and then yellowish circular spots begin appearing on the leaves. On watermelons the spots are irregular and turn dark brown or black. The most striking symptom is circular, black, sunken cankers appear on the fruit. When moisture is present, the black center of the lesion is covered with a gelatinous mass of salmon colored spores. With tomatoes, the disease mainly affects the tomato, but also can infect leaves, stems and roots. Sunken water soaked circular spots appear on the tomatoes. Leaves show symptoms of small circular spots with yellow halos. It can cause significant yield loss and even total crops losses. The diseased tomatoes are usually unmarketable. The infected plants should be removed to avoid further infestation. Increase space between the plants to maximize air flow and drying of the leaves. The disease is favorable when temperatures are 75-82 F and usually occur when moisture and humidity are very high. Plan on using a 3 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, as the disease can survive in over winter on crop debris. Proper tillage practices may be helpful in managing the disease. Fungicides can help manage the disease. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

F – Fusarium Wilt (Race 1)

Scientific Name: Fusarium oxysporum

Type: Fungus

Fusarium Wilt, Race 1, is a fungal disease that affects the growth of tomatoes. It is one of the most devastating of all soil-borne diseases. Race 1 is the most widely found throughout the United States, especially in warm regions of the country. It attacks the roots of the plants and moves up the stems. Symptoms include yellowing and browning of the older bottom leaves, stunting, and wilting. Often the entire plant will die. Usually little or no fruit develops. The infected plants will produce inferior and unmarketable tomatoes. It can cause significant yield loss and even total crops losses. If you stick with Fusarium Wilt Resistant tomato varieties you don’t have to worry. Many of the older heirlooms don’t have any resistance to the disease, so if you grow these then you should keep an eye out for it. The infected plants should be removed and burned to avoid further infestation. Plan on using a 5 to 7 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, as the disease can survive in the soil up to 10 years. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

N – Root-Knot Nematode

Scientific Name: Meloidogyne spp.

Type: Parasites

Nematodes are soil dwelling parasites that feed on plant roots and affect cucumbers, okra, peppers, squash, and tomatoes. Symptoms include yellowing of the leaves, wilting, and stunting of the plant. The plant will have galled and decayed roots. Nematodes are most active when soil temperatures are 85 - 95 F and usually occur when the soil is moisture. Plan on using a 3 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year. Nematodes are most active in warm soils and they need water to thrive so take advantage of summer’s heat to wither them away. Withhold water from nematode infested areas of the garden and turn or till the soil every 7-10 days during the summer to expose nematodes to the drying effects of the sun. Proper tillage practices may be helpful in managing the disease. Certain types of marigolds work by excreting a substance that is damaging to nematodes as well as trapping them in their roots and preventing reproduction. Elbon rye is an effective nematode control that can be planted as a cool season cover crop that is turned under in early spring. The use of soil fumigants like Vapam has been helpful and a fungicide called Actinovate can also be helpful in managing the lowering of the nematode population. Using transparent plastic mulches for 4 to 6 weeks have been shown to kill nematodes. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

St – Stemphylium Gray Spot Leaf

Scientific Name: Stemphylium solani, Stemphylium floridanum, and Stemphylium botryosum

Type: Fungus

Stemphylium Gray Spot Leaf is a fungal disease that affects the growth of tomatoes. It is found in warm regions of the country, and is common in the Southeastern part of the United States. Symptoms include brown to black specks on leaves. As the lesions grow in size, they develop a gray center surrounded by a yellow area. The spots may dry and fall out, forming a shot hole in the leaf. The disease may cause the entire leaves to turn yellow, then brown, and drop off, and the plant may be stunted. The tomatoes are not usually affected unless there is severe defoliation, where sunburn damage can occur on the tomatoes. If you stick with Stemphylium Gray Spot Leaf Resistant tomato varieties you don’t have to worry. Many of the older heirlooms don’t have any resistance to the disease, so if you grow these then you should keep an eye out for it. The infected plants should be removed and burned to avoid further infestation. Plan on using a 5 to 7 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, as the disease can survive in the soil for many years. Stake tomato plants for better circulation. Give plants extra space to allow air to move among leaves to keep leaves as dry as possible. Use soaker hoses and avoid overhead watering. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

TSWV – Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

Type: Virus - Tospovirus

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus is a world-wide virus disease that affects the growth of peppers and tomatoes. Symptoms include bronzing of the upper sides of young leaves, which later develop distinct yellow or brown rings. Leaves may curl inward. The plants will be stunted and have dark streaking on stems. The tomatoes will be deformed. There will be mottled light green rings with raised centers with orange and red discoloration patterns on mature tomatoes making them unmarketable. Infected plants usually wilt and die. It can cause significant yield loss and even total crops losses. The virus is spread by thrips. The disease can stay alive in dead plant material for long periods of time. The infected plants should be removed and destroyed to avoid further infestation. Plan on using a 3 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year. Insecticides for thrips have limited value in controlling the disease as thrips transmit the disease very quickly when they begin to feed on the plant. To control thrips, try setting out yellow or blue colored sticky traps and treat plants with insecticidal soaps. Keep your garden weed free. The best option is to use disease resistant varieties.

V – Verticillium Wilt

Scientific Name: Verticillium dahliae

Type: Fungus

Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne disease that affects the growth of lettuce, peppers, spinach, and tomatoes. This disease is most common in the United States and Europe. In lettuce symptoms include wilting of the lower leaves and then the outer leaves turn yellow, wilt and die. Brown and black streaks appear on the taproot and crown The disease can cause substantial yield loss and total crop loss. It is a seed-borne disease that is spread by farm equipment, wind, and water. The infected plants should be removed and burned to avoid further infestation. The virus can live in weeds, so use weed management techniques. The fungus is very difficult to eradicate once it has been introduced into a field. Plan on using a 4 year crop rotation and avoid planting in the same location, year after year, and can survive in the soil for 14 years. Keep the fields weed free. Deep tilling may be helpful in managing the disease. Thoroughly clean equipment after working in a field. Fumigate fields with methyl bromide. The best option is to use virus-free seeds and disease resistant varieties

Customer Reviews

Average Rating


by on July 26, 2009

Tried my first beefmaster 2 years ago..bought one plant and put it in a flower bed. A little mircale grow and very little care. This plant grew till it looked like three plants. I kept a tally of how many tomatoes came from it. I ended up with 126 beautiful red tomatoes..nice and juicy and just enough tartness. perfect for sandwiches and salads. Needless to say I had plenty to share. This year I bought a couple. they're doing very well..not like that one, but I got my first tomato July 19th. Great tomato. Will get them again next year hopefully.

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by on April 20, 2009

The taste is good and size varied from 6 oz to the claimed 2 lbs. They were slow to ripen last year but the season was not amazing. I am trying again this year

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by on October 31, 2010

I bought one beef master plant at a green house . . . about a 1 inch stalk, 18 inches tall and with 1 set of blooms already formed. Planted late April and had the first tomato before July 4. In another 2 weeks we had many more and could begin to share with family and finally with friends as well. By mid-July my husband had to BUILD a cage with wood 8 ft tall and c-clamped to our fence. It outgrew that and we began tying it to fences in other areas of the yard. (One could get strangled going through the string maze!) The plant took about a 2 week respite and then began producing prolifically again. The vine finally grew back to the ground. Last Tuesday (October 26 because frost was threatening) we finally took it down. We filled 3 packed 32 gallon garbage cans with the vine and harvested the last 50 lbs . . . both red and green. I think we must have had a crop of at least 150 lbs and how many actual tomatoes, who knows. I've made green tomato relish and will now try my hand at frying some along with ripening the green ones. I'm sure that I bored my friends bragging over this plant. The best part is that we live on a very small lot with only one choice to put a plant that needs a lot of sun. The real topper is that it never received any fertilizer all summer long.

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by on April 17, 2010

We grew Beefmaster tomatoes a couple years ago. They are large and tasty. We found them slightly larger than Beafsteak. They make great sauce. Some were a pound! We suggest you to grow it if you want only one tomato breed!

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by on October 26, 2009

A neighbor gave me small plant which I planted in front flower bed. I didn't have a cage so was constantly tying it to the gas meter and downspout. Got the best tomatoes ever and so many from just one plant. I don't think I got a 2 pounder but they were plenty big and delicious. I pulled 30 green ones off right before the first frost. Hoping they will turn. I'm getting more for the next season. Yum!

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by on June 6, 2010

If you're usually averse to F1 hybrids, but would like to maybe have just ONE reliable hybrid beefsteak as a backup in case your OP varieties meet disaster, then this is the hybrid beefsteak to get.

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by on March 15, 2010

I have been growing them from seed for years. Best overall large tomato you can get. The whole tomato turns red and does not have green streaks in it.

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by on January 11, 2011

I have been growing Beefmaster for many years..it is the BEST.

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